KOSOVO: COUNTDOWN TO 
INDEPENDENCE?
By Tim Judah in Gracanica 
and Pristina
February 16, 2006
(From Balkan Insight)
	
	Notwithstanding the views 
of local Serbs, the signs are that talks on the future of Kosovo due to 
begin on Monday will almost certainly lead to some form of independence.
Drive ten minutes from 
Kosovo's capital of Pristina and it feels like you are in a different 
world, or at least a different country. Suddenly, one language, one culture 
and even one religion have vanished.  The music, car number plates, 
documents and money are all different. Welcome to Gracanica.
Ever since the end of the 
Kosovo conflict in 1999, Serbs have retreated into small enclaves across 
the province and an area in the north which abuts Serbia.  
Most Serbs do not speak 
Albanian and they remain fiercely loyal to Serbia. They continue to 
use Serbian dinars - the rest of Kosovo uses the euro - and they carry 
Serbian documents, while Kosovo's 1.8 million or so ethnic Albanians carry ones 
issued by the United Nations.
Gracanica, little more than 
a village, is centred around a magnificent medieval Orthodox church. 
Most Kosovo Albanians are Muslims. Symbolically, however, the gap between 
these two people is represented by their mobile phone networks.
Serbs talk to each other on 
a Serbian network. Because Kosovo is not (yet) an independent country, the 
Kosovo Albanian equivalent borrows the international prefix of 
Monaco.  So, to talk to one another, a Serb and a Kosovo Albanian must 
make an international call, even if they are close enough to see one 
another.
Over the last few weeks the 
opportunities to do even that have been diminishing. Kosovo's 
ethnic Albanian-run government has declared that the Serbian network is 
illegal and its transmitters are being turned off. This has come as a shock to 
the 100,000 or so Serbs that remain in Kosovo, but less of a shock than 
the message that was delivered recently by John Sawers, the political 
director of the British foreign office.
Meeting Kosovo Serb leaders 
on February 6 he told them, in unusually undiplomatic language, that 
the Contact Group, the main foreign powers that deal with the region, 
including Britain, France, the United States and Russia, had decided 
that Kosovo would soon be independent.  
At the talks on Kosovo's 
future which begin on Monday in Vienna under the supervision of former 
Finnish president Martti Ahtisaari, he said, they and Serbia would have 
to fight hard for a good deal on autonomy and minority rights.  
Such news should not have 
come as a surprise. After all, the messages had been clear for months. 
The Contact Group had already said that the solution for Kosovo had 
to satisfy the will of its people - and well over 90 per cent are 
ethnic Albanians who want nothing less than independence.  
But, ever since 1999, Serbs 
in Gracanica and elsewhere appear to have lived in a dreamland, fed 
by stories from Belgrade, in which they expected that one day the Serbian 
flag would once more fly over Kosovo.  
Vojislav Vitkovic is a 
teacher in Gracanica. "It was an extreme shock," he says, adding that 
discrimination against Serbs in Kosovo is such that, to his mind, the province 
"is a hypocrisy and not a democracy".  
Asked if he will leave, if 
and when Kosovo becomes independent, he says that like his friends he 
has adopted a "wait and see" policy.  He added that 70 per cent of Kosovo 
Serbs still do not believe that independence will happen.  
Rada Trajkovic, a local 
Serb leader who was at the meeting with Sawers, says that it was a stormy 
event, but that it was not the first time a foreign emissary had told 
them that independence was coming. Why then had she not told her people 
this?  "Because I am not a servant of the Serbian government."  
"If the status of Kosovo 
has already been decided," she says, "what are we supposed to negotiate? 
Are we supposed to go, just to see how beautiful Ahtisaari is? "  
The mood here is best 
summed up by Zivojin Rakocevic, the editor of the local radio station, who 
declares that everyone is "fatally depressed".  
But they are clearly not 
giving up yet. In the restaurant where we meet we overhear a man who has 
come from Serbia lecturing local Serbian journalists. He is 
discussing bringing in broadcast transmission equipment to install here to create 
or bolster networks for Serbian radio or television to cover all the 
areas where Serbs live.  
Down in Pristina the mood, 
unsurprisingly, is upbeat. Kosovo's president, Ibrahim Rugova died last 
month and coach loads of mourners are still coming to have their photo 
taken behind his tomb.  But, contrary to expectations, the 
presidential succession was smooth.  
Now says Ylber Hysa, an 
opposition deputy who is a member of the political group of the 
status talks team, minds are turning to the post-independence period. 
He says that local institutions need to be solidified because until 
now the province has been run on the basis of "permanent crisis 
management" and, as the UN mission leaves Kosovo, that needs to change.  
Kosovo has huge economic 
problems, a chronic power shortage, high unemployment and weak rule 
of law. But all surveys have shown that Kosovo's young population 
is one of the most optimistic in Europe. And, with independence in 
sight, young people are even more hopeful. What is important now, says 
one student who asked to remain anonymous is just knowing, "that 
Serbia is off our backs for good."  
But is it?  In the wake of 
Sawers's declarations, Tomislav Nikolic, the leader of Serbia's 
nationalist Radical Party, has declared that he and Serbia's premier 
Vojislav Kostunica, have agreed that if Kosovo gets independence then it 
should be declared "occupied territory".   If that happens, then 
Serbia will, in effect, rip up its application forms for NATO and the European 
Union and return to being an embittered pariah of Europe. In any 
settlement, NATO troops will stay in Kosovo and the EU will take a role in helping 
to run it.  Under those circumstances, with Serbia publicly committed 
to reconquering Kosovo, in which NATO and the EU would be part of the 
occupation forces, it would hardly be realistic to expect to continue the 
process of joining those organisations at the same time.  
Such a policy might however 
be popular in Serbia and might even lead to the election of the 
Radicals as the next government. But the attitude of western diplomats is far 
from sympathetic.  What if independence led to a Radical government in 
Serbia?  "So what?" answers a diplomat close to the talks process in 
Vienna.  
Tim Judah is a leading 
Balkan commentator and the author of "The Serbs: History, Myth and the 
Destruction of Yugoslavia" and "Kosovo: War and Revenge," both 
published by Yale University Press. 
Balkan Insight is BIRN's Internet 
publication.